How to Repair Bald Patches in Your Lawn Without Re-Turfing
So your lawn’s got a few bald spots. Maybe it looks like someone dragged a paddling pool across it last summer and forgot to move it for two weeks. Or your dog’s taken a particular liking to one area. Either way, the good news is you don’t have to rip the whole thing up and start again.
Fixing patchy grass is totally doable, even if you’re not obsessed with a roller and a seed spreader the size of a tractor. You just need the right time, the right stuff, and a little bit of patience.
First, figure out what went wrong
Before you start throwing down grass seed like confetti, it helps to understand why those bald patches showed up in the first place. Otherwise, you’ll just be doing the same repair job again next season.
It could be heavy foot traffic. It could be shade. It could be a pet that keeps peeing in the same place. Or maybe the soil’s just compacted and nothing can grow. Sometimes it’s a combination of things. If you can figure out the cause, that would be great. If not, don’t worry too much. You can still fix it — you might just have to keep an eye on the area once it starts growing again.
Timing matters more than you think
Spring and early autumn are the sweet spots. That’s when soil is warm enough to encourage grass seed germination, but not so hot that it dries out overnight. Aim for a stretch of weather that’s mild and not bone-dry. You want a few damp mornings in the forecast, not a heatwave nor a cold snap.
Give the soil some breathing room
You wouldn’t sow seeds on a concrete patio and expect them to grow, right? Same goes here. If the soil is hard and compacted, rake it up a bit. Loosen the top few centimetres so the seeds have somewhere to nestle in. If it’s really dense, a garden fork can help break things up. Just stab and wiggle — no need to go overboard.
Now mix in a bit of fresh compost, especially something that’s well-balanced and gentle on young roots. A peat-free compost is ideal here, especially one designed for lawn or general garden use. It improves structure and holds moisture without clogging up like some cheaper alternatives.
Choose the right seed (not just any grass will do)
Not all grass seeds are the same. Some mixes are made for ornamental lawns — lovely to look at, terrible at surviving kids and dogs. For patches, go for a multi-purpose or hard-wearing mix that suits your garden’s light and use. Shady lawn seed is great if your bald patches are under trees or beside fences. Otherwise, a standard family lawn mix usually does the trick.
Scatter a good, even layer over the area you’ve prepared, around 15-25g/sq m. You don’t need to bury the seed; just gently rake it in so it makes contact with the soil. That contact is key — it’s what tells the seed it’s safe to start growing.
Keep it damp, not soaked
Water gently after sowing, using a watering can with a rose head or a soft spray from a hose. Think light showers, not pressure washing. Then keep the area moist for the next couple of weeks. If it dries out completely, the seeds can stall or die off before they sprout.
You don’t need to be glued to your lawn with a watering can. A light watering once or twice a day during dry spells is usually enough. If it’s raining, let nature take over.
Be patient — grass takes a minute
You might see little green shoots in 7 to 10 days, or it might take a bit longer depending on the weather and the seed. Don’t panic if it looks patchy at first. It’ll thicken up as more seeds germinate.
Once the new grass is a few inches high, give it its first gentle mow, trimming just the tips. Make sure the mower blades are sharp. Ragged cuts can damage the baby grass.
And if you’ve still got a few thinner spots after the first round, don’t stress. Just repeat the process. Over time, the lawn will fill in and blend together.
Bonus tip: Protect your hard work
If birds are treating your freshly seeded patch like a buffet, a light layer of horticultural fleece or even a bit of straw can help keep them off. Just don’t smother it. You want light and air to reach the seeds.
For high-traffic areas (like where the kids run out of the back door every day), try placing a board or a bit of mesh over the patch for a week or two. It’ll keep little feet off until the new grass is tough enough to take it.
One last thing
Once your lawn is looking fuller again, it helps to keep feeding it every now and then. Not every week. Just enough to stop it getting tired. A light organic feed or compost top-dressing once or twice a season is plenty.
And that’s it. No turf rolls. No dramatic renovation. Just a bit of compost, a handful of seed, and a couple of weeks of slightly fussier watering. Before you know it, you’ll be the proud owner of a green patch you didn’t have to squint at from across the garden.
We recommend peat-free compost for your gardens, but if you are paranoid about trying it for the first time, here is a guide that can help: Going peat-free? Here’s all you need to know.
